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Skinner
Ten Day's Tour
through the Isle of Anglesea
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
^rrhaealffjia Camlrreitsijj
TEN DAYS' TOUR
THROUGH
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
DECEMBER, 1802
BY
REV. JOHN SKINNER
RECTOR OF CAMERTON, SOMERSETSHIRE
^
'omios vuayfflfliRtfvyD]
^
SUPPLEMENT, JULY, 1908.
LONDON :
iUufilistP^ foe tije iffamfirian ^rriiafologiral ^ssoriation t)}
CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE, W.C.
3lri*fntea[o0tH CambreiiJjijj
TEN DAYS' TOUR
THROUGH
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
DECEMBER, 1802
BY
REV. JOHN SKINNER
RECTOR OF CAMERTON, SOMERSETSHIRE
^
(pynmufft vu ovmrnRif vyp]
^
SUPPLEMENT, JULY, 1908.
LONDON :
^Jutilisfjrt for tljf aramlulnn :ard)afo(ooirnl .Hssoriatlon iiji,)
CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE, W.C.
DA
740
INTRODUCTION
AsS
The Rev. John Skinner's Ten Days' Tour Through
Aiiglesey, which is given in the following pages, has
been carefully transcribed from the manuscript in the
British Museum, the punctuation, spelling, and use of
capitals followed strictly throughout. Some notes have
been kindly furnished by Mr. E. Neil Baynes, F.S.A.,
and he has also copied (in black and white) most
of the water-colour illustrations which are included
in the manuscript. The illustrations are reduced from
the original size, but with this exception and the
absence of colour they have been copied as closely as
possible, with all errors of perspective, etc. Some of
the drawings would appear to have been done by
Mr. Skinner in the evening from memory, and not
on the spot. The complete list is printed herewith,
and the pages where the plates appear in the original.
A copy of an extract from Mr. Skinner's will is
subjoined, in which he expresses his particular wish
that the chests containino- his numerous notebooks
should not be opened until the expiration of fifty years
from the day of his death.
Extracted from the Principal Registry of the Probate Divorce
and Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice
In the Prerogative Court of Canterbury.
In the will of the Reverend John Skinner
late Rector of Camerton in the county of
Somerset deceased dated 1st February 1839
is as follows : —
No. 2. I give and bequeath to the trustees of the British
Museum all my Journals and other Manuscripts transcribed
by my late brother Russell from No. 1 to No. 110 both
A 2
4 INTRODUCTION
inclusive and interleaved with original drawings together
with the Journals I have made in my own hand-writing since
my brother's death from the year one thousand eight hundred
and thirty three to the year one thousand eight hundred and
thirty-eight in volume 1 to volume 36 of an Octavo size with
blue Morocco backs containing altogether in number one
hundred and forty six which I desire may be safely conveyed
to the trustees of the British Museum with the five Iron Chests
in which they are now contained and I request my said
executor the Reverend John Hammond to see to the per-
formance of this bequest in the manner aforesaid and it is my
particular wish and request that neither of the Iron Chests
with the contents aforesaid shall be opened till after the
expiration of fifty years from the day of my death but
provided the trustees of the British Museum should raise any
objection thereto it is my will that my before mentioned
request should not be insisted upon.
Proved (with two Codicils)
14th November 1839
Fos 4
J JC
716 Vauohan
N.B. — It is not to be inferred that the
foregoing extract contains the only
portion of the said Will referring to
the matters therein mentioned.
»
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
1. Plas Goch ... ... ... ... 23
2. Blochty Enclosures ... ... ... 25
3. Bryn Gwyn. Stone by Cottage ... ... 27
4. Ground Plans, Oaer Leb, etc. ... ... 28
6, 7. Bodowyr Cromlech (2) ... ... 30,31
8, 9, 10, 11. Carnedd at Plas Newydd (4) 34, 37
12. Cromlech at Plas Newydd ... ... ... 39
Cromlech and Stables (omitted).
5. Ground Plan, Bryn Gwydryn, etc. ... ... 42
Coins of Edward VI and Elizabeth (omitted).
Bryn Celli, Plan and Finds ... ... ... 44
Llanidan Church ... ... ... ... 49
16. Stone (Fitzgerald) in Llanidan Church ... 50
17. Maen Llwyd Cromlech ... ... ... 52
18. Frondeg Stone ... ... ... ... 53
19. Llangadwaladr Church ... ... ... 55
20. Llangadwaladr Doorway, showing Stone ... 56
Inscription to Rich. "Williams (omitted as it is in
the text).
21. Llangadwaladr Church Inscribed Stone ... 57
2 2. Henblas Cromlech ... ... ... ... 60
23. Cerrigceinwen Church ... ... ... 63
24, 25. Cerrigceinwen Church Clochti (2)... 64, 55
26, 27, 28. Cerrigceinwen Church Font (2) 66, 68
29. AberfFraw Church Arch. ... ... ... 70
Llangwy fan Church (omitted) ... ... 71
31. Llangwyfan Church, Interior ... ... 72
32. Llangwyfan House . . ... ... 74
33. Cromlech at Mynydd y Cnwc ... ... 75
A half-hnislied sketch of Trecastel Bay (omitted),
34. Llanfaelog Cromlech (2) ... ... 78,79
36. Crighyll Cromlech... ... .. ... 81
37, 39. Presaddfedd Cromlech (3) ... 84,86
Proposed Menai Bridge (omitted).
41. Llantrisant Stone.
Pabo Stone (omitted, vide Arch. Camb., January,
1908)... ... ... ... ... 93
Doorway at Llanbabo (omitted, vide Arch. Camb.,
January, 1908) ... ... ... ... 94
ILLUSTRATIONS
45. Llanfechell Stones ...
Llanfecliell Church and Font
46. Llaneilian Church ...
Parys Mine (omitted).
48. Three Stones (near Amlwch)
49. Llanol Stone
Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain and
Lleidr
Coin of Diocletian (omitted).
View of Bodafon Mountain from N.W.
View of Bodafon Mountain from S.E.
Stones in Penrhos lligwy Churchyard
Lligwy Cromlech ...
Lligwy Cromlech, Caer Lligwy
56. Llanallgo Cromlech and Font {vide note)
Stones at Marianglas (omitted).
58. Llaniestyn Stone ...
59. Llaniestyn Font ...
GO, 61. Cromlech at Trefor (2)
50
5L
52.
53.
54.
55.
Carreg
134,
PAGE
96
97
99
106
112
115
116
119
121
123
124
125
130
132
135
Altar Tomb in Penmynydd Church, sketched
from memory (omitted).
No. 99. The stepped gable over the gateway should, I think, be over
the porch, and the pointed gable shown over the porch should
be over the gateway, but I am not certain.
No. 115. The font described as in Penrhoslligwy Church is really
the old font of Llanallgo. It was covered with plaster and set
on a rough mass of masonry. When the Church was restored,
about fifteen years ago, the plaster was cut away and the font
was redressed.
N.B.— The be«^inning of a page in the original is marked
by the introduction in the text of folio and number between
brackets, thus (fol. 22).
Additional MSS. 33,G36
This book was transcribed from my Journal by my
brother Russell Skinner (who was the com-
panion of my Tour) Anno Dom : 1804
SKETCHES IN ANGLESEA
TAKEN IN DECEMBER 1802
BY
REV? JOHN SKINNER
1802 '
62
1740
I give this Vol. of my Anglesea Tour with my
other Journals, to the British Museum to be
retained by them according to the directions
I have left in my will respecting the disposal
of my MSS.
(fol. 22)
TEN DAYS' TOUR TH. THE
ISLE OF ANGLESEA
Anno 1802
Thursday, December 2
We left Capel Cerig early this morning on horseback
with the design of examining the Celtic remains in
the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the inn accom-
panying us in the capacity of interpreter. After a
ride of fifteen miles along the vale of Nantftrancon by
Lord Penrhyn's quarries we came to Moel-don ferry
about eleven o'clock when returning our horses by a
boy (fol. 22a) (previously sent forward for the purpose
from Capel Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians. Our
passage across the Menai savoured somewhat of
quixottism for the ferry boat being on the other side
waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the
delay so taking possession of a fisherman's skiff lying
on the beach we row^ed to the Island pursuing nearly
the same track as the Romans seventeen hundred
years ago under the command of Paulinus Suetonius
which event is so particularly described by Tacitus.
On our landing we immediately made the necessary
enquiries at a public house for the route we were to
pursue and found the places we had noted down lay so
wide asunder it would be impossible to comprehend
them in the course of the day. We accordingly deter-
mined on making that our sleeping place and after a
slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields to
Llanidan. In our way passed an ancient mansion called
JO TEN days' tour THROUGH
Pias Goch apparently built in the time of Elizabeth
A little way bevond the house is a natural barrier ol
rock rising abruptly above the level ground and ex-
tending almost the whole way to Porthamel the distance
of half a mile. Near this place in a meadow the
Romans are supposed to have formed their ranks
immediately on landing and the field to this day
retains the name of Pant y scraffie, or the place
of the passage boats. At low tides the channel
H
J, liii; ^'1 >!«
W Hi-/'-
-.„,... v^i^*^ •«>''-v-' ^
No. 1. Plas Goch, December 2.
is not above three or four feet deep so that it might
easily have been crossed by the cavalry in the manner
described by the Historian and the natural barrier
before mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at all
improbable that it was the first post occupied by the
Romans under Paulinus Suetonius on their invasion
of the island 1740 years ago. " Igitur Monam insu-
1am, incolis validam et receptaculum perfugarum ad-
gredi parat, navesque fabricatur piano alveo adversus
breve litus (flat bottomed boats to pass over the
shallows) et incertum — sic pedes — (the infantry thus
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
11
passed over) equites vado secuti aut altiores inter
undas adnantes equis tramisere." The cavalry followed
the infantry, and by fording and swimming over the
deeper channels arrived at the opposite side. Tac.
Ann. lib. 14, c. 29. A few minutes' walk brought us to
Llanidan church, which seems superior to (fol. 24a)
the generality of Welsh buildings of the kind having
a double roof and two bells in the clochti or belfry.
A large irregular built mansion^ belonging to Mr.
'
/'M cAJy ^ J^r^ U^ ^ '^"^'"'^ '"
h
A
-- - ■ . - ^ ' ■ c
.>v
■ ,;i; r
, -&
■w ^
V, , A i.,-a- <r- •-.a-'-'- ~~T- . ,
Ov a.
;■ .,(■
t' •' ■ ■ . ' r ■ .. ■ . , , - : J. .^
>,jifu^':r it^^'^^^- "^iB'^i^^i; A-v"" ^-r- ' '-)^
No. 2.
Williams who has acquired such immense property in
the Pary's Mines stands close to it. From Llanidan
we took the road to Bryn Shenkin half a mile be-
yond. It is where Mr. Roland supposes the Britons
formerly had a town but now every trace is lost.
Having procured a lad well acquainted with the neigh-
bourhood to conduct us by the nearest route we quickly
proceeded to Blochti half a mile further to the north-
west.^ At this place on a steep bank or rather ridge
1 Llanidan House belonged to Lord Boston, from whom Mr.
Williams rented it,
- South-west.
12
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
of rock (a quarry being now worked beneath) we
traced the foundations of four or five circular buildings
in a line close to each other each measuring nearly
seven yards in diameter. The same gentleman Mr,
Rowland describes these as the remains (fol. 26) of
British habitations and his opinion seems to be con-
firmed by some others of a similar form lying in a
meadow called Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards
from the spot. These latter are surrounded by two
\
■7^ \ Mi'rfj
^'Y
\^m..
^y^'hr-
_. r; .»-■>»<— '_*.---^«»' ^-t-_j_,
- t , ■ . • c^ .>^7%»
No. 3. Druidical Stone staudiug near a Cottage called Bryn Gwyn.
quadrangular earthworks the larger fifty yards by
forty containing four of these circular foundations the
smaller (forty yards by thirty) only two. It is not
improbal)le that some of the Roman soldiers might
have occupied this spot after driving the inhabitants
from their possessions and that the earth works were
tlirown up by them by way of security.
Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks
of a circular work probably formed for the same
l)urpose as that we before noticed at Caerleon and I
presume was a gymnasium or place of exercise (the
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
13
country people indeed have an idea it was a fortifica-
tion as our g'uide informed us it still goes by the name
of the Castle.^ Whatever it was it does not appear to
have been at all connected with the Druidical worship
(fol. 26«) as Mr. Rowland supposes). The mound
encompassing the area may be from ten to fifteen
feet in height the diameter of the circle sixty yards.
This measurement I believe is nearly accurate but part
of the circle having been destroyed in order to form a
' , (Joy*: ..
-i-l - — -3g*<^ — -
^To 1^ a^<^^_^-
Jo-
"§^'"3^'
5», ■■r.yM'
yi> Uj : -'/ Put
iha/r -i/tij
:&
;' %
V/ I ■'^^^. K^u.y^ Tr^ '^'^^^^
■>^L<Xf
v^
_Ji\ i-n, '^ to-i^ -
'»" fi?
No. 4.
cart road makes it more difficult to determine with
certainty. On enquiring for some ancient stones
noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn
we were directed to one standing near a cottage a
quarter of a mile to the north-west^ of the circus It
was of a lozenofe form measurino- above three yards in
height and two in width. We observed none of equal
dimensions near at hand but in a field at the back of
the cottaofe there were six each about a yard high
placed three and three at equal distances so as to form
1 Castell near Bryn Gwyn. ^ West.
14
TEN days' tour THROUGH
two exact triangles. From hence we proceeded along
hio-her ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref
brw (Druids town) where some of that venerable
order are said to have resided. Now the name alone
records the circumstance to posterity as there is
nothino- remaining which can be attributed to so remote
a period. But not far distant we were directed to a
quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground
near the brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants
No. 6. Side View of Bodowyr Cromlech.
the river Briant)\ The outer mound^ measures fifty
yards by forty and is about five feet in height
the trench 12 feet wide. Near the centre of the
enclosure we noticed the foundation of another of the
circular huts above mentioned and in an angle to the
south east appearances of walls and buildings.
The course of the river must have altered consider-
al)ly in aftertimcs otherwise the Romans would
hardly liave chosen so damp a spot even for a tem-
porary encampment. Still continuing in a northerly
1 Braint.
- Caer Lab.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 15
direction and leaping over the river Briant we regained
the higher ground near (fol. 29a) Bodower^ house
which is at present occupied by a farmer who rents the
property of Lord Boston. Here we were gratified by
the sight of a very perfect chromlech standing in a
field to the N.W.^ of the house. The upper stone
terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building and
measures seven feet four inches long three feet deep
and four wide : this is sustained by three supporters
-r
r
^■/^.^
))
i.
■■fi*.
x-^y
-•%^ . tri^ ■
No. 7. End View of Bodowyr Cromlech.
each three feet in height & nearly the same in
thickness. That cromlechs were not always used (if
they were at all) as altars for sacrifice I think may be
demonstrated by the one before us (as its Pyramidical
form is by no means adapted to the purpose. Indeed
there is a tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude
memorial was erected over the grave of a British
princess named Bronwen who flourished in the year of
the world 3105 ! ! ! !). My sketches being finished we
^ Bodowyr. - Half a mile south-west.
16 TEX days' tour THROUOtH
hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian^ a mile and a
half further before the evening closed in but owing to
a mistake of the guide's we lost our way and wandered
about until it grew quite dark. Our disappointment
however was in some respect alleviated (fol. 32) by
the intelligence we received of some Roman coins
in possession of a person at Tre Evan"-^ a cottage we
were to pass on our return. The moon having by this
time risen above the horizon we had a pleasant walk
to Tre Evan and entering: the door made known the
purport of our visit to the good lady of the house who
readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits of
brass money but thinking them of no value had given
them her children to play with. On our anxious
request through our interpreter for a more exact
scruitiny in this important concern she began rumag-
ing a little cupboard and at length produced a coun-
terfeit shilling of William the third which she said was
all that she retained of any money. This was a
mortifying termination to our suspence as we were in
hope a few (fol. 32a) might have escaped the general
dispertion. On enquiring how the brass coins came
into her possession she informed us that about six
years ago whilst a labourer was building a wall round
a field near her house he took materials for the purpose
from the foundations of some circular buildings (similar
to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a
millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about
two quarts of brass coins. He also dug up a smaller
millstone which she still retained in her cottage. On
producing it I found it of a close texture and tho'
only ten inches in diameter weighing twenty-six pounds.
This probably belonged to a hand mill as it seems to
resemble those I noticed in my excursion along the
Roman wall. By the way the circumstance of finding
these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building
sufficiently proves that the Romans occupied the
1 Myfyrian. 2 Tre If an.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 17
premises after the Britons had quitted them. We
returned at seven o'clock to Moel-don and supped in
company with a young clergyman just aj^pointed to
the curacy of the parish. He proved an agreeable
companion and gave us some interesting (fol. 33) in-
formation regarding the new regulations at Oxford.
On retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them
altogether the most homely I ever occupied. However
as we had made up our minds not to quarrel with
trivial difficulties we resigned ourselves to our lot
without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all in ob-
livion.
Friday, Decr. 3
We were up early this morning but it rained so fast
we could not leave the house till ten. I employed the
interval in copying a map of the Island on a large
scale which is to be filled up as we proceed. Accom-
panied by our new acquaintance we first visited Llane-
dwyn^ church where he officiates for the first time
next Sunday. The church yard and a great part of
the parish has lately been enclosed by Lord Uxbridge's
park walls and we were not a little surprized to find a
(fol. 33a) porter's lodge and a locked gate on the
church road.
In the church yard is a flat stone with a Latin
inscription to Rowlands the antiquarian who held
this living with Llanidan for many years. We found
by the date that he died in one thousand seven
hundred and twenty-seven.
What is very extraordinary for the author of such a
book as Mona Antiqua we were told he was never
above once out of the Island in his life.
Llanedwyn church is said by this gentleman to have
been originally founded by Ed wen neice or daughter to
king Edwin anno domini six hundred and four though
none of the present building we presume can boast of
1 Llanedwen.
1 8 TEN days' tour THROUGH
that antiquity it being formed after the present model
of Welsh churches. Yet it retains its bason for holy
water, its modern crosses, and a curious inscription cut
on the back of one of the pews, the letters running in
a circle with i. h. s. in the centre. I believe the inscrip-
tion is Welsh : the character (fol. 38) apparently that
made use of in the time of Henry the seventh. From
hence we pursued our walk across the park towards
Lord Uxbridge's house stopping in the way to examine
a very large Carnedd^ or artificial hillock formed of
jrJ /^>»-j-^-i^,^>;>^l
No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge's Park, North Side.
loose stones but now overgrown with turf and trees.
This remain is one of the most considerable in the
island measuring one hundred and thirty-four paces in
circumference. On walkinof round it we observed a
square opening on the south side which I entered on
my hands and knees and found it about ten feet
long, four wide and three high, the sides formed
of three large flat stones placed edgeways in the
ground supporting the roof which consists of only
two. I have endeavoured to be as exact as I could
in my drawings of this cistfaen (which without
1 Carnedd at Plas Newydd.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
19
r-^-
r^ '->-
>4 ,. ^mi/%A
'III ' ' V1_J
. W
,_>r«^^
^-.^
/<
No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Cainedd.
3^c^- t.-j 4/-^^ ^-^5 ^^"^-'-^
No. 10. Ground Phm of the Ci.sfaen within the Carnedd.
doubt it was) and employed as the grave of
some considerable personage (folio 38a) in ancient
B 2
20
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
times though Mr. Rowlands appropriates the carnedd
to a very different use and connects it with the religion
of the Druids. In his time three skeletons were dis-
covered in dio'trinof near the surface of the carnedd
which gave him an idea of its being a place of sacri-
fice but he had never an opportunity of viewing the
interior (the opening having been discovered within
these few years) he was unable to speak with certainty
on the subject. This was certainly the mode of
sepulture among the Britons, and northern invaders
.^.
'/■
^■-.^rv..,.
-*Sit!iS
'Ik ■\:-Ll^.^::J' '■
//i r^^-t^ C^^t/" u^/AtfH^ r»-«y
No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-haud Side on Entering.
before the introduction of Christianity, and many of
the open parts of England especially Wiltshire &
Dorsetshire abound in them, there they are denome-
nated barrows, in Derbyshire & the northern coun-
ties they are called lows. The term carnedd implies
a heap of stones.
From hence we proceeded to look at a very large
cromlech^ or Druidical altar preserved in the Park
near his lordship's stables. In our way there we
passed in front of the house a vast pile of building
1 Cromlech at Plas Newydd.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 21
designed by Wyatt and recently fitted up with every
elegance of modern refinement but as the family
(fol. 41) were at home we could not visit the in-
teriour. However I made a drawing- of the crom-
lech which is nearly four yards long and above a yard
thick, the supporters at the north end nearly five feet
high a smaller stone lying close to the other extremity
measuring three feet long and two and a half thick
has also its small supporters and is to all appearance
intended as a separate cromlech. A large tree spread-
No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge's Park.
ing its branches over the moss grown stone and the
venerable wood sheltering the park are still very
impressive and give some idea of the enthusiasm these
objects were capable of inspiring when connected with
superstition. The stables, not far distant from the
spot are built in a style of gothic architecture resem-
bling an extensive monaster}^, the pampered and lazy
steeds within their stalls may be considered as no
inapt emblem of the former (fol. 41a) inhabitants of
such kind of edifices. From hence we walked to a
modern villa situated in another part of the grounds
22
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
called Fort Cassar built by Colonel Peacock about
20 years since, but on Lord Uxbridge's purchasing
the Colonel's estate it was enclosed within that
park, as is also a more ancient mansion called Plas
Llanedwyn besides many farm houses and cottages.
The park wall has not long since been erected, it is
built of stone ten feet high and extends nearly four
miles in length.
ituf. -»ty?- 'is-f--f /..jA.
^^ ' ^-r.fmJ-'^^'^'^^'^-^^-^:^-^^
•yU'iATt
h
cJ^ .'>v.
,/_<J>^^f'^^
^I'qfl. CC S^'
i^.
•3
No.
Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in
company with Mr. Hughes of Plas Goch towards Bryn
Gwiderin. In our way thither he engaged a young
man well acquainted with the country to conduct us to
those places we had marked out in our list for the day.
Bryn Gwiderin^ is a natural ledge of rock resembling
what we before noticed at Plas Goch running for
upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin'" the
(fol. 43) Beaumaris road being formed on the summit.
1 Gwydryn.
Brynsiencyn.
THE LSLE OF ANGLESEA 23
The Romans are supposed to have fixed upon this spot
as their principal station in the Island though the
shape of the fortress^ differs from their usual form
being a semicircle ninety yards across defended by
a triple trench to the southward and to the north by
the natural barrier above mentioned. I was anxious
to see whether the walls had been constructed with
cement as in the more finished works of the Romans
but could gain no information on the subject having
nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the
surface. On asking the guide whether they had ever
discovered any copper coins, he said oh yes he had
some in his possession and off he ran like a dart to his
cottage nearly half a mile distant. We waited his
return hoping at length our wishes would be gratified
in this respect when lo ! instead of coins bearing the
effigies of the Csesars he produced a handful of
(fol. 43«) rough copper ore, on explaining to him
what we wanted saj'ing they resembled a piece of
money he said he had one of that kind also of silver
which he picked up a short time since in a field near
home whither he returned with equal alacrity to
procure it and shortly made his appearance with a
shilling of Elizabeth's ! ! ! So much for coins. There
seems to be a fatality against my collecting any. In
my excursion along the Roman Wall I heard of many
l)ut could obtain none. Those I procured at Caerwent
are unfortunately lost many have certainly been dug
up in these parts but either lost or disposed of. We
continued our progress from Bryn Gwyderin in a
northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance
of two miles over heaths & bogs. At this place we
expected to meet with some Druidical remains noticed
by Mr. Rowlands but they have all been cleared
(fol. 45) away since his time. At Bodlew we expe-
rienced a similar disappointment. We therefore pro-
ceeded towards Llanddeiniol church in expectation of
^ Castell Idris,
24
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
fv>n\. Of. ttic
7lo4.
hxA^ftuKUi^ iriTLt, cry IUa inv^cu. ctof^ <-'4«4_
(^ K<A-r^ erf- OLj Si/t'yutur gk*jvi^(f /cte. ^
(X Cat- PIAjCOOK Wilo (n,rvy.tJ_ ttU.
Biyu Celli Ddu Cromlech.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 25
seeing some painted glass said to have been presented
by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose f'amil} formerly
resided here but nothing of the kind w as to be seen or
indeed anything else for never was I in so dark or
dismal a place. But in this parish we were fully
recompensed for all our former disappointments by the
sight of the Carnedd at Bryn Colli.
Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a
lanthorn for the purpose we Avalked nearly a mile to
the south east of the church to the spot where in Mr.
Rowlands' time there were two carnedds remaining
having two rude stone pillars placed between them
but these stones have been employed for the purpose
of building a wall near this place as well as a great
part (fol. 45«) of the western carnedd which is nearly
destroyed for the same purpose about twenty 3-ears
ago when the labourers when digging towards the
center discovered a flat pan about ten inches over-
turned bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold
as they pretend the size of the heater of an iron with a
piece of wire passing through the smaller end of it.
The father of the young man who was with us
happened to be one of the workmen employed at the
time, but as what they found was immediately taken
by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the
man could give no further account of the circumstance.
I should imagine that what they called the wedge of
gold was no other than one of the brazen celts or
sacrificial instruments used in formei- times which have
been discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and
(fol. 46) other parts of the kingdom. Whilst a farmer
was removing some of the stones from the north east
side of the larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs
he came to the mouth of a passage covered with
a square stone similar to that at Plas Newydd, anxi-
ous to reap the fruits of his discovery he procui'ed a
light and crept forward on his hands and knees along
the dreary vault, when lo ! in a chamber at the further
end a figure in white seemed to forbid his approach.
26 TEN days' tour through
The poor man had scarcely power sufficient to crawl
backwards out of this den of spirits as he imagined
however in the course of a few days instigated by the
hopes of riches and the presence of many assistants he
made his second entre into the cavern and finding the
white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly went
(fol. 4()a) forward and discovered the object of his
apprehensions was no other than a stone pillar about
six feet in height standing in the centre of the chamber.
His former consternation could now only be exceeded
by his eagerness to see what was contained beneath
the stone which he shortly overturned but treasure
there was none, some large human bones lying near
the pillar sufficiently testifying the purpose for which
the structure was intended. This is the substance of
the account we received from the young man ^vhose
father was one of Colonel Peacock's labourers and on
the premises at the time of the discovery. The super-
stition of the common people still suppose this to be
the habitation of spirits.
Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment
each other about precedence I took the lanthorn and
crawling for about twelve feet along (fol. 47) a narrow
passage got into a more capacious chamber, my com-
panions followed close at my heels and we assembled
to the number of six in this singular sepulchre. The
passage by which we entered is about three feet high
and a little more in breadth and was formed like that
we noticed at Plas Newydd with flat stones stuck
endways and covered with others of still greater mag-
nitude laid across. I have still my doubts that if the
former was further explored it might terminate in a
similar vault to what we are now speaking of. The
height of the chamber is nine feet, its form nearly
triangular some of the sides being about three yards
lonof and four or five feet high. The intermediate
space up to the roof is filled with stones placed one
above the other in the manner they build walls but
without any kind of cement. Two prodigious flat
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 27"
stones covered the whole one about three yards in
length and two in breadth (fol. 47rt) the other not
quite so large. These are of a gritty substance not
like any stone found in the vicinity. The pillar still
lying in the cavern is a kind of freestone and seems to
have been rounded by tlie tool. On examining more
minutely this singular structure we were not a little
annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have
reigned here unmolested for ages the cones con-
taining their young ones suspended from different
parts of the roof nearly as large as those of silk
worms.
I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half
an hour and on regaining the open air found the
evening shut in, and the gloom still heightened by a
heavy rain which accompanied us the whole way to
Moel-don where we arrived very wet to a late dinner
and went early to bed.
(Fol. 48) Saturday, Deck. 4
We were up as soon as it was light this morning
and having taken leave of our new acquaintance who
seems destined to vegetate on sixty pounds per annum
with the charge of three churches and a wife into the
bargain, we proceeded along the shore of the Menai to
Llanidan. In our way observed more particularly
Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are
supposed to have effected their landing, Mr. Rowland
with some probability derives y scraffie from the I^atin
word scaphae a kind of flat boats or skiffs best adapted
for a shallow coast. We stopped a few minutes at
Llanidan to look at the inside of the church. Mr.
Williams senior, who died last week at Bath is expected
to be interred here. Like Sir Benjamin Haniet and
Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he
(fol. 48a) acquired a princely fortune having been first
agent and then afterwards partner in that lucrative
2g
tEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
concern the Parys mine. I took a drawing of Llanidan
church and afterwards copied an inscription in the
church yard bearing date 1640 the character differs
from most others of the same period. The interior of
the building has httle to attract notice but Kussell
copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz Gerald
who appears to have been resident at the old mansion
at Bodowyr in the beginning of the last century.
Some arms of a prior date let into the wall near the
communion table are I believe the same as those placed
over the entrance door of the house. " Here lyeth
Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir Gent son of Edmund
Llauirlan Church.
Fitz Gerald Gen- and Mary Price who died April xii
MDCCix being lineally descended from Gerard Oge of
Rathrown who was (fol. 51) descended from Mac
Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in
Ireland aet xxxiv. iv. m 8 r i p." The lad who had
been our conductor yesterday still accompanied us and
I confess I was not a little pleased with his disinter-
ested attention. We took nearly the same route we
had done before from Bryn Shenkin to Blochti in
order to see a cromlech^ called Maen Llhwyd, not
having been able to procure any intelligence respecting
it when here the other day.
1 Perthi Duon ?
THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA
29
The cap stone and its three supporters remain still
on the spot but have long since been thrown prostrate
on the ground. If I remember rio-ht Mr. Rowlands
speaks of it as a demolished cromlech in his time. The
cap stone is nearly circular measuring about two yards
: »^^ i'U^ Ht.~.,^3^.^ SA-
•y
No. 16. In8ciij)tiou.s at Llaiiidan.
and a half in diameter and a yard in thickness. The
two supporters lying near it are about two yards each
in length, the third we could not take the dimensions
of (fol. 51a) because the cap stone had fallen over it.
From Maen Llhwjd we took the direction to
Bodowyr which gave us an opportunity of seeing Tre
Fwry the field in which the Roman coins were dug up.
30 TEN days' tour THROUGH
Four or five circular buildings may here be traced
close to the brook Briant.
I believe that most of the stones that form the wall
round the field were taken from this spot. Having
taken a rough sketch of the place we proceeded on to
Bodowyr. In a stubble field rather to the westward
of the house we noticed some foundations of buildings
covering about an acre of ground. The country people
have a tradition that a large town once stood here but
t
/3£o cJCti^
'''Vi^'^"X- v^TZt?-w^'"»T->- ^^
/ Itf^f^t^ -dtcme^ -hcA-r^ C^c^a-^ a-^ 2 j-^-^/i- ^ ^a.,,,^ ^ita^C^ <i. y'* f^"^
?>l, St^f><!>^Td ^^°-^-^ S.-ygJ'^fv,^
No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty.
SO many of the stones have been removed to clear
the ground it is impossible to form any idea respect-
ing it.
Proceeding across the fields for three^ miles to the
north west we came to a farm house called Fron Dtag^
where we had been directed to enquire for a stone
(fol. 54) with an inscription now employed as a gatepost
on the premises. We soon found the spot and we en-
deavoured to trace the rude characters with as much
^ A mile and a quarter south-west.
^ Frondeg.
THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA
31
care as possible, I imagine the stone was intended for
a boundary and that the vi and the letters under-
neath refer to some measurement of property. The
other part I think is more intelligible and thus read
Mad. Filius Lluricini erexit hunc lapidem.
No. IS. Stoue near Frondug, 5 ft. in lieight.
The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account
of the stone having once been taken away to be
employed in building a limekiln by a person in the
neighbourhood but he added with great earnestness
that nothing succeeded with him till he had again
restored it to its place. It now forms a gate post
though the gate is hung on the opposite side of the
32
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
way. We here separated from the good natured lad
who had attended us so many miles and finding him
superior to any pecuniary recompence I gave (fol, 54a)
him a silk handkerchief from my neck which he says
he shall keep as long as he lives. Before he left us he
made interest at a farm house for horses to carry us
over Malltreath^ a swampy flat covered by the sea at
high tides. However we passed without difficulty
pushing straight forwards towards a village church
iSfi
/ ^'%
'^'.fllli^^
^-iH^ I, •
r
\ \
No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church.
called Treasdreath^ and passed a large stone called
Maen hir. From hence leaving Mr, Meyrick's house a
large mansion to the left we made the best of our way
to Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant. We
had noted down this place from Mr. Rowlands on
account of an ancient inscription placed there by Cad-
walader last king of the Britons to commemorate
Catamanus or Catwallon his grandfather. The charac-
ters are very deeply cut on a stone above four feet
long forming the lintern to the doorway of the church
1 Malltraeth.
2 Trefdraeth.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 33
and is read Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatis-
simus omnium (fol. 58) regum. This Cadfan or Cata-
manus accordino- to Mr. Rowlands was chosen Kino- of
the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and is said to
have been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir John
Wynne's pedigree we find an account of a Cadwallader of
a much later date he being brother of Owen Gwynnedd
stiled king of Wales. Whether this was the person
who founded the church or whether it was built as
Mr. Rowlands says prior to that period the Welsh
'I
Nwuroi^iNXXi "
ypOHiNty/itiK
.'^1
^^^ /l ^^..^i^A
No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr
Church.
historians must determine. I only hint this because
I found nothing in the structure of the building to
corroborate so remote an antiquity as the chief window
to the east appears to be about the time of Henry the
seventh or eighth and on it is some painted glass in
the characters of that age (fol, 58a). A chapel at-
tached to the north side of the church was built anno
sixteen hundred sixty six by dame Owen as we learnt
by the following inscription over the doorway. This
chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter
34
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
and inheretrix of Richard Williams of Llasdiilas^ Esq''
according to the direction of her deare husband Hugh
Owen Esq"""^ sixteen hundred sixty one. Under some
arms painted on the glass of the chapel was, appointed
by her deare husband Hugh Owen sonne and heir of
U HI
' *^ f^f t„^
.■■77'>-t:
Aim- Jto<CYC<> /
.._ T'
I 1
t
r
tx.-«^ ^ ^ia/~ KtrttCt- J Ki^A
No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to
the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq.
Will Owen of Bodowen Esq'' and erected by his dear
wife Anne.
Under a monument erected against the east wall
of the church where a knight in armour and a lady
^ Llysdulas.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 35
are kneeling before an altar are the following curious
lines containing more of loyalty than poesy (fol. 59) —
To the memory of Hugh Owen Esq'^'" of Bodowen who died the
twenty first of October sixteen hundred fifty nine.
Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost
A noble patron who maintained them at his cost
His country's patriot most firme to loyalty
And for being loyal suffer'd infinitely
With foes would not cologne nor his prince betray
But livde his faithful subject every day.
This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife
the daughter and inheritrix of Richard Williams of
Llasd^las Esq''^ in memory of her deare husband
sixteen hundred sixty.
Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repair-
ing his family chapel on the opposite side. The
original edifice as appears by a stone lying in the
church was built by Richard Meyricke Esq''^ anno
sixteen hundred forty (fol. 59a) and the vault under-
neath by his great grandson Owen Meyricke Esq*"^
seventeen hundred thirty. The evening was closing
in fast before we had finished our observations at
Llancadwaladr.
A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to
Al)erftraw was rendered still more disagreeable by an
incessant and heavy rain and we had no small degree
of anxiety the whole of our walk lest we should be
still more unfortunate in not gaining admittance at
the public house as we understood that a number of
Westleans with Mr. Charles at their head were to
have a meeting the following day in the village.
However on our arrival at the house we found a good
welcome and much better quarters than we had reason
to expect. After a comfortable supper of boiled rabbit
we retired to rest.
r. 9.
36 TEN days' tour through
(fol. 61) Sunday, Decr. 5
This morning after breakfast the weather being
tolerably fair we walked to Henblas in the parish of
Llangristiolus in expectation of seeing a cromlech
mentioned in our list. In our way thither we skirted
a lake^ about two miles in circumference and noticed
large flocks of wild ducks and other acquatic birds near
the shore but on our approach they swam immediately
>, .- ; ' u <.r o Mott c-''''' * ^"
^ ,
. V' .^ /.)•'■■;/ ■
No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas.
to the middle of the water. About a mile and a half
beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla^ belong-
ing to Mr. Evans and at Henblas another the property
of his sister but at present only tenanted by a gardener
who accompanied us over the fields to the object we
came in search of. We here found three immense
stones two of them above fifteen feet high and nearly
the same in width standing upright in the ground,
another of a (fol. 61a) flatter form leant against them.
I cannot imagine there is anything artificial in the
arrangements of these ponderous bodies but that their
^ Llyn Coion. ^ Trefeilir.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA ST
jDosition is the one they were placed in by the hand of
nature. Whether they ever were or were not employed
by the Druids I do not pretend to determine. And
here we may observe the word cromlech is applied by
the Welsh indiscriminately to stones either natural or
artificial if they are only found inclining in such a
direction that there is a hollow underneath. The
largest stone in the pass of Llanberis which not many
<
1
/ ^' m\ - '^\....A:A:^.
>;;■%■ -V:^
No. 23. Cerigainwj'ii Cliuicli.
years ago rolled from the heights above obtains the
name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed
in many other instances. On returning from this spot
the gardener who seemed to be an intelligent man
j)ointed to a rising ground to the southward about two
miles oft which he said was called (fol. 02) Ester^ mon
eglwr where are still to be traced the foundations of
an ancient fortress and tradition says a lofty watch
tower once stood on this eminence commanding the
^ Treijjaniedd ? three miles to the north. " Ester mon es^lwr" —
bliould this read maes elidr ? "1 Esgair maes elidr."
38
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
circumference of the Island. From hence a causeway
ran across the low ground to^vards a large carnedd
wherein were discovered many human bones. Not far
from hence he himself picked up a piece of silver coin
which he had given to a lady in the neighbourhood.
^^w^U
i^
I \.
X
Hi
j>
nrili
^^'i
No. 24. Clochty at Caregaiuwin Church.
As we had received intelligence of some old characters
cut in the wall of Cerigainwyn^ Church we walked
thither and were glad to find t^omething better worthy
of notice than the cromlech we had quitted for here
are still visible some large Saxon characters cut very
deep in the stone of the clochti or belfry. In order to
^ Cerrigceinwen,
The isle of anglesea
39
transcribe them more perfectly I procured a ladder and
mounted aloft but this (fol. 62a) enterprize was
attended with no small difficulty for being obliged to
employ both hands while sketching and the ladder
lying very slanting I could only depend upon the toes
/.■
-|]#'^
1^!^
J^H^
:-^^
ty^
No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church.
of my boots for support against the wall. Whilst thus
situated there came on a violent storm of sleet and
hail which so benumbed my hands I hurried the busi-
ness more than I otherwise should have done but still
I think I have the drawing pretty exact. These rude
Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building
40
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigaiuwin Church.
No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Cliurch.
and probably were designed to perpetuate the name of
its founder and the date of the foundation but when
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
41
the original edifice grew to decay they were taken out
of their original order and placed just as they happened
to come into use in the building the clochti so that
many of the letters are lost or inverted. I think I am
authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol. 69)
present appearance of the u and the s which are
evidently reversed. Other letters are also wanting to
make good the inscription. The font within the church
is without doubt equally ancient as it retains the
Runic lines and ornaments which were used among
No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigaiuwin Chviicb.
the northern nations of the sixth and seventh century.
Of this I made three drawings. The clerk a surly
Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inchned to be very
impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the
same reason the Angfel did the Miser in Parnell's
beautiful poem of the Hermit namely to make him
more civil and attentive to other travellers should
curiosity ever lead them to this spot. The clouds now
gathering round us and everything seeming to portend
bad weather we made the best of our way to Aber-
fFraw having altogether walked twelve miles.
42
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
(fol. 69a) Monday, Decr. 6
We found there was so much to be seen in the
neighbourhood of Aberifraw that we determined on
prolonging our stay for another day at our present
station. About nine attended by the same person
who went with us yesterday we walked to the parish
church which outwardly resembles other Welsh build-
No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]
ings of the kind but on entering we observed a neat
turned Saxon arch to the west end underneath the
clochti an evident token that this part of the build-
ing was of a more ancient date and most likely erected
during the times the Saxons held the Island which was
for above a century. Aberffraw afterwards became
the residence of the North Welsh princes and we may
suppose it was a place of the greatest consequence in
the Island though now it scarcely deserves the title of
a village.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
43
(fol. 73) Not far from the church they point out a
field where the palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces
remain the ground having been cleared quite to the
foundation. Proceeding in a northwesterly direction
for a mile and a half we came to the little church of
Llangwyfan. This is erected on a rocky peninsula
jutting out into the sea and is an Island at high water
so that not unfrequently the congregation are inter-
rupted in their devotion by the rapid approach of the
No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfau Church.
waves. From its exposed situation to the weather
and from the spray of the sea beating against its
walls the stones in parts are fretted like a honeycomb
which gives it a most venerable appearance though
from the shape of the windows at the east end I shouki
not suppose it was above four centuries standing.
Whilst I was sketching the font and part of tlio interior
Russell copied a curious (fol. 73o) epitaph to the
memory of Mr. Woode written about the year sixteen
hundred two an asfe remarkable for its false wit and
44
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
punnino- indeed must have been very prevalent to
have found its way to so remote a quarter as this.
Inscribed on a brass plate let into a stone slab is
the following epitaph :
Felix ter felix niarmor quia nobile lignu'"
Quo caret infelix insula marmor liabes
Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignu"'
Et lignu'" vitae post sua fata Deo
Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti
Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem
In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui
Obiit G die April A" Dni 1602 ^tat 70.
..J L__ I
A
! fit ' f^
J.
J.^a*t^Uj-ij^a^n. h-OX.<.,t-4L-
j5 I a „
O-aA* un-mM ad, Ihjt ut-fi^.i^uJ-i £^^
m eLoAt nn-cnJ.
No. 32.
(fol. 76) In our way back we collected some
beautiful specmiens of sea weed and a few shells and
passing- by a large mansion^ house the former habi-
tation of this Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr.
Meyricke by a farmer we walked a mile farther to
Mynnedd- Cnwc having understood there was a crom-
lech to be seen there.
Mynnedd Cnwc is a promontory running two or
1 Llangwyfan House. . Mynydd Cnwc.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
45
three hundred yards into the sea and fornaing the
northern boundary of a small bay called Port Tre
Castel to the south of which on a semicircular rock
about fifty yards over jutting into the bay we observed
a deep trench and mound cut towards the land side
and a square earth work of smaller dimensions a
little beyond this doubtless was the work of inva-
ders on their first landing. Instead of a cromlech
.<-"^\M;
■'^^i l^i/ffM
'3sm^^
No. 33. Remains of a Caruedd at Myaydd-y-Cn\vc.
at Mynnedd Cnwc we found the vestiges of a large
caruedd many of the fiat stones of the cist faen or
chamber are still remaining' but the small ones have
been almost all removed to build a wall close at hand
(fol. 77a). On another fork of the peninsula about an
hundred yards distant we observed the traces of another
carnedd of much smaller dimensions. From the nature
of their situation, the bay, the earth work &c. it is not
improbable to suppose that an engagement here took
place with the natives wherein some principal officers
46
TEN DATS TOUR THROUGH
were slain and interred on the spot. A natural cavern
in the rock penetrates for some distance in the penin-
sula but it being liigh tide we could not satisfy our
cariosity in examining it. The country people have a
strange idea of spirits haunting these carnedds and
frequently see lights (Ignis fatuus) hovering round the
point. They moreover report that an iron boot was
dug up not long ago full of money but on further
enquiry the money vanished and so did the boot too.
No. 34. Oaer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog.
By the description of a man who had seen it I believe it
was no other than a gambado belonging to Mr. Woode
or some of his descendants
(Pol. 80) Hence continuing our walk to the north-
ward we passed through the parish of Llanfaelog and
about half a mile beyond the church came to a very
perfect cromlech.^ The cap stone is rather of an oblong
shape and measured sixteen feet long, six wide, and
three thick. It only rested upon three supporters
each about three feet high although there were four
1 At Ty Newydd.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
47
placed in the ground. Near the cromlech were lying
two large stones, the one seventeen feet long and three
thick. Having made two drawings on the spot we
were invited by a country woman to take some refresh-
ment at her house, and whilst she went forward to
prepare for our reception we walked about half a mile
further towards the river CrighilP to see another
cromlech.' This stood on low ground quite in a swamp
the cap stone like that at Maen Llhwyd has been
No. .36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll.
thrown down and its supporters lie near it. Also
many other stones from three to five feet long to the
number of thirty lie (fol. 8 Oo^) scattered in all directions
around it. Having hastily sketched this remain we
followed the direction of a person who persuaded us
there were some very ancient letters on a stone placed
in a wall about an hundred yards distant. Above a
quarter of an hour was employed to no purpose in the
search. At length assisted by some men who came
Crigyll.
2 At Pentraeth.
48 TEN days' tour through
from a neighbouring field whose zeal in the business
was augmented by the promise of a shilling we
discovered the valuable antique which had been em-
ployed as a land mark and traced the letters o. w. one
thousand six hundred and sixty four very legibly on
the surface.
How many hundreds would have laughed at the
distress of the young antiquarians on this occasion but
as the more learned of that venerable society are
continually exposed to similar or greater mistakes we
must find shelter from the shafts of ridicule under the
shade of (fol. 82) their protecting wings. At the farm
house we found some white bread and cheese and
butter milk placed on a clean cloth waiting our arrival
and returning many thanks to our kind entertainer
who was as pretty as she was obliging we took our
leave and proceeded towards a barn in the neighbour-
hood where with the assistance of a lanthorn I traced
the characters kalis deeply cut in a stone now serving
as the lintern to a small window but said to have been
taken from a field near the spot. I think these
characters are Roman as the style of the l cut
obliquely much resembles what I have noticed on
some inscriptions in the north of England made a
short time before the Romans quitted the island.
Returned to Aberffraw across a large warren appar-
ently well stocked v/ith rabbits. They are sold in these
parts for fourpence apiece, fowls are also equally
cheap, so that with the assistance of fish the inhabit-
ants can fiire very luxuriantly without butcher's meat.
A farmer overtook (fol. 82a) and accompanied us to
Aberffraw. In the course of conversati(jn he said it
was this day seventeen years being the Carnarvon fair
on which the passage boat was lost and eighty people
perished in the Menai most of whom were inhabitants
<)f the island by which sad catastrophy nearly every
family liad to lament the loss of some relative.
Ill the evening we received a visit from Mr. Row-
lands curate of Aberffraw, on enquiring of him what
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 49
was become of the various coins which had been dug
up in these parts of the island he said that most
of them had been taken to Mr. Meyricke who he was
sure would be very happy in shewing them to us, but
we were so apprehensive of being detained by the
weather at this time of the year that we could not
venture to spend the following day at Aberffraw
though the civility and attention we experienced from
our hostess would have been a stronsf inducement at a
more favourable season.
(fol. 83) Tuesday, Deck. 7
Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we
quitted it this morning about ten and pursued the
same track we had done yesterday for about three
miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak
heath rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms
of wind and rain we arrived at Llanfihangle yn
nhewlyn^ expecting to find some ancient remains in
this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon
the summit of the rocks which seem to have little
claim to the interference of the Druids to place them
in their present position. On enquiring at a cottage
near this spot whether there were any carnedds or
chromlechs to be seen we exposed ourselves to the
ridicule of two old women who enjoyed a hearty laugh
at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones.
Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way
to Bodedern situated on the turnpike road about eight
miles from Holyhead. This place did not prepossess
us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry
accommodations (fol. 83rt). However we were obliged
to put up with them unless we made up our minds to
reach Holyhead which would have thrown us nearly a
day backward in our march. Having ordered the best
the house could aftbrd for dinner we walked nearly a
' ^Nhewyii,
50
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
mile along the turnpike road in the direction of
Gwindy^ when turning off into a field to the left we
approached one of the finest and most finished crom-
lechs^ we have yet seen in the island the cap stone
measuring four yards and a half long four yards wide
and two yards thick^ its three supporters each about
a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth
nearly of the same height but it does not touch the
stone above. Under this cromlech we were informed
No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche.
a whole family who had been ejected from their
habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There
was another cromlech close at hand but the cap stone
had been forced down and rests in a slantinof direction
against the supporters the top stone of this measured
three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half
wide and its supporters nearly two yards high. An
old mansion near the spot was we understand the
residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married King
^ Gwyndj, 2 ^t Presaddfedd. 3 Feet ?
THE ISLE OF AXGLESEA 51
master of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem
to be very much out of repair having been untenanted
for some tim*. Returned about four to our homely
dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after
retracing my sketches I took a copy of a pkm that was
in the room of the intended bridge over the Menai.
This if it ever is put into execution will be a stupendous
work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built
pretty strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth
A ^^
\
— r-4\jry,«^-4^.
~»^
' ,
— _-
^
No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche.
of April 1785 a meeting was first held for the purpose
of consulting about it at St. Alban's tavern when the
following resolutions passed : first, that the erecting
a carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will
be of great public utility— second— that it appears
from the reports and concurrent opinions of several
able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon
piles with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental
(fol. 87a) to the navigation of the said streights and
therefore we approve of a bridge being erected on
• D 2
52 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
that plan, third, that we will support the application
made to parliament for an act for building a bridge
across the said str eights agreeable to the above plan.
N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards follow the signature
of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the
first intention was to have constructed one of wood
with three swivel bridges for the convenience of vessels
passing to and fro. Now according to the present
plan it is to be of stone with three center arches
sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass
with all her sails set. God knows whether this plan
will ever be brought to perfection but in this mechani-
cal age we can scarcely wonder at the projection ot*
any enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were
not pleased with our fare much less were we with our
sleeping apartments at this place the upper story was
(fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof
being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal
boards wherein are placed the different beds for the
family and strangers We slept in separate beds it is
true, but every word that was said, nor ought that
was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to
the ear at least as though we had been in the same
dormontory. I was unfortunately situated, in having
some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not
being above half an inch thick I may literally say they
were close at my ear. Different kinds of music re-
sounded from different parts of the room. I bore all
this harmonious combination of sounds with the
philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when
my next neighbour played so violently on the double
bass I lost all patience and began knocking with equal
violence on the partition between us. This not only
awoke him but every part of the house was soon in
motion and the host got up grumbling and swearing
and called the people about him to go and (fol. 89a)
see who it was who knocked at the door for they
imagined it was some traveller who wished to gain
admittance. In the course of an hour when the tumult
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 5.S
was subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by
our guide whour I' had ordered to call nie at half
past six. *
Wednesday, Deck. 8
We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it
was light paying much higher for our miserable enter-
tainment than we had done at any place in the island.
First directed our steps along the turnpike to Llan-
drugan\ situated near G windy the halfway house
between Beaumaris and Holyhead our host having
given us to understand there was a very ancient stone
near the church which many travellers went to look
at but few could read the inscription. He himself
among the rest although he said he was a good
schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years
could (fol. 90) make nothing of it. On arriving at the
spot we found a flat tomb stone to the right of the
entrance door bearing the following lines legibly cut on
its surface :
Reader in me doe thou thyself behold
Wilonie full hie but now full low in mould
Bodychens heyr I was my name was John
The second who that sirname fixt upon
Credit nor wealth nor friends I did not lacke
Heare dead and dust loe all doe me forsake
The day draws on when God me hence shall raise
Amongst his chosen his great name to praise.
On the side nearest the church door :
Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo
sexto centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo.
On the opposite side :
Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc delectessimo
conjugi piae memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo die Martii anno
milessimo aexgentessimo quadragessimo.
Though we copied the inscription being on the spot
' Llandrygarn.
54 TEN days' tour through
we did not think it deserving a digression of three
miles to read especially as we had so much to perform
before night.
Hence we hastened forward to Llantrisant not
without some apprehension in being equally deceived
in an ancient inscription we learnt was to be seen there
cut on the stone'^ of a gateway. On enquiring at a
farm house we found it had been taken up from the
gate and placed in a kind of shed as a block to chop
sticks on. This intelligence conveyed through our
interpreter did not quiet our fears for the fate of the
inscription, however towards the place we went and
fortunately found the stone lying with the inscription
downwards (fol. 92). On the edge was engraved Aroe
lapidibus in the manner I have shewn in my sketch.
Havino^ with the assistance of four stout fellows turned
the stone I traced as nearly as I could the characters
as they appear in my drawing. The stone was of a
lozenge form about six feet high and three wide, and I
conjecture was first of all employed by the Romans as
a direction across the country, as the words Aroe
lapidibus to the stones of Aroe seem to imply. The
second inscription was probably cut some centuries
after in monkish times as appears by the words
moribus disciplinae et sapientiae coming together in
the conclusion of the sentence. Indeed many of the
upright pillars we have met with in the island I
imagine were intended as directions or boundaries and
not at all connected Avith druidical worship as Mr.
Rowlands seems to suppose. The day by this time
being far advanced we exerted ourselves as much as
the country would (fol. 92a) allow to gain Llanbabo
church four miles distant in sufficient time to copy an
ancient stone dug up here in the reign of Charles the
second bearing the effigies of Pabo post Prid or Prince
Pabo the support of Britain who flourished about the
year four hundred sixty and who is said to have
^ Now at Trescawen.
\VA
V
SIR
ROE
WROE
LAPIDIBV
H
!).
/VATIS
A I C i^;
5 P •■'•■••,■:;.-
N U R
'■' 9"''' ECV5
5 N A R CC:.r CEFOMW
yMCWVW Ndc^VKR
PARE/VTVViEXEMr\
lET MORIBVS 0»S
^lP^^\^f AAECSAPiEh'i
iTlAE
■A'" Z^ I SPonJi. U^. tloM^TT^cKfU Thru^
56 TEN days' tour through
built and to have been buried in this church. His
effioies are designed on a flat stone resembhng free
stone, the figure crowned with a sceptre in its right
hand and a close garment down to its feet. On the
edge of the stone these characters are cut hie jacet
Pabo post Prid the remainder is very much defaced
but I should read it qui edificavit hanc ecclesiam.
For my own part I cannot but think that the whole
of this is some ages later than Pabo's time as both the
sculpture and the formation of the letters are those
of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. We know
that in Roman catholic countries it is very common
for the priests to preserve (fol. 95) the effigies of their
founders and benefactors in their churches and monas-
teries and might not this have been presented to the
church by some rich family in the neighbourhood by
way of acquiring the favour of the sainted patron. The
letters here noticed very much resemble those I have
copied from the monument in Bettws y Coed church
in Carnarvonshire. I took as perfect a drawing as
my time would allow and afterwards just sketched the
entrance door and three uncooth and at present white-
washed visages let into the stone above and on each
side of it. These are of such rude workmanship that
I should rather attribute them to the time of Pabo
than the subject we have just considered. A kind of
waving line over the arch of the door as described in
my sketch is I conjecture no less antique. The church
itself differs in no other respect from the generality of
Welsh buildings, and the parish is so scattered that
not above two houses are to be seen in any direction.
From hence to Llanfechell we experienced a dirty
swampy and fatiguing walk (fol. 95a) of four miles
and the termination of it was rendered still more
unfortunate as we found the public house so indifferent
we could not think of spending the night there
accordingly we hastened by the light of the moon to
examine some stones and a cromlech about half a mile
beyond leaving our interpreter who seemed to be
1
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 57
pretty well tired of antique hunting to eat his dinner,
in the interini^the liost of the public house officiating
in his stead. Under his guidance we first visited
three upright stones standing on a rising ground
placed three paces asunder forming an exact triangle.
They were about seven feet high and two feet and
a half wide. These I make no doubt were intended
as a direction to travellers as they might be seen from
every rising hillock in the neighbourhood and also
^
,J.:i.
r
J
....^
>\m
No. 45. Stoues in Llaufecliell Parish.
from the coast, we could not learn that they were
called by any particular name if it had sounded any-
thing like aroe it would have thrown some light upon
the inscription in Llantrisant parish.
From hence passing by an old {fol. 98) mansion
named cromlech now tenanted by a farmer we came to
the spot where many large stones were lying scattered
promiscuously on the ground and one nearly square
measuring nine feet across leaning against some u})-
rights about six feet high. From the appearance
of this place I should rather imagine that it had been
58
TEN DATS TOUR THROUGH
the interior or cistfaen of a carnedd and this opinioti
seems somewhat confirmed by the accounts of the
common people who remember great quantities of
stone having been removed to form a wall. Returning
to the public house we made a meal on bread and
cheese and afterwards procuring the key of the church
we examined its interior. The font is square having
a double Saxon arch rudely carved on each face.
Llaufechell Church.
Font, Llanfechell Church.
Over the communion table is a Latin inscription to
Mr. Humphreys Rector of the parish which we tran-
scribed :
Cineribus sacrum
H. S. E.
(fol. 98a) RoBERTUs Humphreys M.A.
vii" eruditus perquam et modestus
Rei medicae
praesertim botanicae apprime gnarus
Praxique claruit
hujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustra
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 59
Extitit Rector
ohiit'Xiii id Junii anno mdccix
^ ^tatis suae LViii
Dnus dnus Ricardus Nicom. Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet
defuncto hoc positum voluit
A long five miles ^Yalk l:)roiight us to Amlwch
where with some little difficulty (the hostess not
admiring our pedestrian appearance) we gained admit-
tance, a good supi^er and comfortable sleeping appart-
ments which indeed were not a little refreshinof after
(fol. 101) the labours uf the day and the adventures
of the preceeding night.
Thursday, Deck. 9
Amlwch is a long straggling place and may contain
from four to five thousand inhabitants thouoii before
the working of the Parys mines there were not an
hundred tenements in the parish. Besides two or
three good houses a church has been lately erected by
the copper company on a neat substantial plan and a
quay formed near the smelting houses where ships of
two or three hundred tons burthen may take in their
lading. These we passed in our way to Llanelian
church this morning which we had been directed to
examine as one of the most curious structures in the
island. This church differs from most others in North
Wales in having a kind of spire rising from a square
tower. I cannot say that this edition is very elegant
it being coated all the way up with small slate. The
body of the church is ornamented with battlements,
pinnacles, and (fol. 101a) buttresses in the style of our
parish churches built about the time of Henry the
seventh. Having procured the key we found the
interior still retaining its catholic collection of saints
and apostles, and the seats, chancel, and communion-
table, were decorated with a profusion of carving in
oak. On the latter on a kind of scroll we read non nobis
Domine non nobis sed nomine tuo. Beneath the arches
60
TEN DAYS TOUR THR0UC4H
which supported the roof of the building were six
grotesque little figures, playing on the bagpipe, pibcorn,
and other instruments, their appearance is rendered
still more ridiculous by their being painted in black
coats, yellow waistcoats, and white wigs. In a small
chapel attached to the south east end of the church
(which is said to have been the original edifice founded
by Saint Elian) there is a kind of semicircular chest or
cabinet made of oak into which whoever can enter and
Jj-. Jl.3-^.
•^^^MiM-^
No. 46. Llanelian Church.
turn himself round is sure in the opinion of the vulgar
to live out the year but if he fails it will (fol. 102)
prove fatal to him. People from all parts come at
stated periods to try their destiny in this absurd way.
There is also an old chest well secured by bolts bars
and nails in another part of the church having a small
slit in the lid through which the country people are
said to drop a piece of money uttering their maledic-
tions against their enemies the black gentleman is
thus feed to work evil against the offender, this
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 61
uncharitable and unchristian custom if true seems
almost too bad*eVen-for monkish times much worse
to be continued now. Having viewed these rehcs of
superstition we ascended by a circuLar tower to the roof
[of] the church which is very nicely leaded. On
enquiring afterwards of a Welsh clergyman why
Llanelian was so much better taken care of than other
parish churches I found that some lands had been
appropriated by one of the Welsh princes centuries
ago by way of expiation for his sins to kec}) it in
constant repair, this accounts for its having a steeple,
being leaded, &c. &c.
After sketching the building we returned (fol. 102«)
to Amlwch, on our way thither obtained a very clear
view of the Isle of Man lying only sixteen leagues to
the north of this coast. Could we have insured a
week's fine w^eather we should not have hesitated an
instant including that island in our circuit as I have
long wished to satisfy myself respecting some ancient
inscri])tions at Pielstown. I understand there is almost
daily communication through the herring boats which
come here to dispose of their cargoes. Having taken
a slight repast at Amlwch we proceeded to the Parys
mountain which of late years has enriched not only
many individuals but the nation at large. It lies
about a mile south of the town and though denomina-
ted a mountain, in Carnarvonshire at least w^ould be
deemed a very inconsiderable hillock. The approach
to it is dreary in the extreme for the sulphurious steams
issuing from the copper kilns have destroyed every
germ ot vegetation in the neighbourhood. When we
had gained (fol. 103) the higher ground the unin-
teresting and gloomy prospect we had hitherto observed
was at once converted into the most lively and active
scene. Hundreds of men, women, and children, ap-
peared busily occupied in the different branches of this
vast concern and the bustle of the metropolis prevailed
amidst the dreary recesses of the Druids. The produce
of the mountain belongs to two different companies
62 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
one called the Parys Mine shared between Lord
Uxbridge, Mr. Hughes, and Mr. Williams. The
other, the Mona mine I believe is Lord Uxbridge's
alone.
Our servant having delivered a message from the
people of the inn to one of the overseers of the Parys
mine, he accompanied us over the works. A stranger
not acquainted with mining concerns cannot do better
than take his first lesson at this place. There being
no necessity of descending into subterrianean abodes
to grope out for information by candle light, incommo-
ded by damp, dirt, and foul vapours, for all is here
worked open to the day and by taking his station in
one (fol. 103a) point he can command a view of the
whole proceedings from the beginning to the end and
receive every satisfactory explanation almost without
moving from the spot. We first were conducted to
some wooden stages erected on the edge of the bason
if I may so employ that term to an immense excava-
tion of an oval form about two hundred yards long,
half so much in width and eighty in depth which has
been hollowed out in the course of twenty years,
these wooden stages are each supplied with a windlass
for the purpose of drawing up the ore from the bottom.
On looking down from hence to the chasm beneath,
we saw the rock rich with ore of a light gold colour
which the miners were busily employed in boring,
blasting, breaking with sledge hammers, wheeling the
fragments to appointed places beneath the stages filling
the baskets which were hauled up as before mentioned
by the windlass. There might be from twelve to
fourteen stages erected for this purpose in different
(fol. 104) parts of the mine.
As soon as the commodity is landed it is delivered
to a number of women and children to be broken into
smaller pieces. The good ore is then separated from
that of an inferior sort and carried to kilns to be
baked. The sulphur forms in what is called flour
brimstone by the chy mists on the top of the oven.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA G3
This is afterwards collected, melted in large cauldrons
and formed intp roUnd moulds for sale.
We understood that the better kind of ore was sent
to Neath and other places, and the inferior to the
smelting houses at Amlwch. In walking round the
premises we crossed a small stream running into some
square reservoirs, this water was so impregnated
with copper that merely the dipping a key in for two
or three seconds rendered it entirely the colour of that
metal. The square reservoirs above mentioned was
stored with all the old iron that could be collected
which are turned monthly the coperas on them sinking
in a kind (fol. 104a) of red slime to the bottom.
At stated times the pits are emptied and the
produce when hardened becomes equally valuable to
the richest ore in the mines. We may be sure that
every drop of this precious stream is turned to the best
account possible indeed so productive is it that they
compute it to be worth above three halfpence a quart.
On entering the compting house one of the clerks sitting
there obligingly gratified us with the sight of a number
of drawers full of the most beautiful specimens of
minerals I ever saw and moreover requested us to take
oar choice of what we most admired. We were con-
strained to be very moderate on account of the weight
of the article but if we could have procured a ready
carriage I fancy we should have been rather more
greedy in our selection. At it was we took nearly
five pounds' weight of the following minerals and
mixtures (fol. 105) :
First. Mundig containing sulphur and iron.
2. Iron incrusted witli lead chrystals.
3. Copper ore.
4. Copper ore after roasting.
5. Copper taken from the reservoir of old iron.
6. Quartz containing copper ore.
7. Ziiik commonly called black Jack incorporated with copper
rock holding a small quantity of lead.
8. Quartz with a little of the Ziuk and chrystals.
64 TEN days' tour through
9. Pure copper.
10. Blue stone issuing from the copper rocks,
11. Sulphur.
12. Copper coming from the old iron after it is dried.
Hence we just looked into the assay house but
could not see the process the man having concluded
work we also viewed the kilns and the coppers where
the sulphur is melted. Having taken a very competent
surV'Oy and complimented our obliging and intelligent
conductor for his trouble in the best manner we were
able, we took a long walk for nearly five miles to the
west of Parys mountain towards Llanfechell where we
heard there was (fol. 105a) a prodigious large stone with
writinQc under it to be seen. Our conductor who was
a young man of Amlwch speaking pretty good English
entertained us the whole way by a variety of ghost
stories and preternatural events the common talk of
the neighbourhood. The stone we were going to see
was so big that it would sink the largest ship that
came to Amlwch. That it stood in a valley by itself
resting on a flat stone whereon a good many characters
were engraved but nobody was able to make them out
but should some learned person have that good fortune
the stone would immediately move off of itself and
there would be a pot of gold to reward him for his
schollarship. That a countryman living hard by had
seen the treasure three followinof nig-hts in his dreams
and had spent some time in digging for it but all to
no purpose for it was not intended for him. On
telling our guide he should equally (fol. 107) share
whatever we discovered it quickened our march
astonishingly and I really believe we were not above
an hour in reaching the stone notwithstanding the
many impediments which crossed our way. On which
we passed an upright stone about seven feet high in
the middle of a field resembling some of those we
before noticed as boundaries. Here exclaimed Sancho
a man also found a considerable treasure, although
amused by his simplicity it in some measure weakened
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
do
the interest we had taken in the object of our walk
and we felt the less disappointed at finding we had
taken our ramUe in vain when Ave arrived at the spot.
For a candle being procured at the treasure dreamer's
cottao-e we discovered that what they took for letters
were nothing but a few natural crevices in the rock,
and that the stone itself though of some magnitude'
possessed no more claim to notice than any other
detached fragment lying by the road side. (fol. I07rt)
-.-^
^ UtJ: LtaL ,/^>Wi*
No. 48. Ff edoged-y- Gowres.
However disappointed we concealed our chagrin and
even suffered our conductor to take us half a mile out
of the way to see an immense stone which he said was
called Praes Maen on account of a brass pot being
placed near it and that when the sun shone whoever
could trace the shadow at a particular time of the day
would discover a great treasure in a brass vessel. It
was moonlight when we arrived at this stone which
certainly is more worthy of notice than the one we had
quitted. It is standing upright in the midst of a field
and measures thirteen feet high and fourteen and
66 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
fifteen in circumference allowing four or five feet
under ground, it must have been a very heavy body
and cost some trouble to have erected it in its present
position. Approaching nearer to Amlwch we observed
our quondam loquacious compation become very silent,
and just as we had passed an old wall about half a mile
(fob 108) froin the town he told us with evident marks
of trepidation that there was a ghost sitting there
every night, on asking him if he had ever seen it he
said no but that many of his friends had, it was in the
shape of a woman and once had attempted to pull
a farmer's wife off her horse but was prevented by the
arrival of a second person when it vanished. That on
Christmas Eve the inhabitants of Amlwch used to
come to the spot in order to see how many lights
would pass by and as many did so many persons
as travelled that road would die within the twelve-
month.
I just mention these ridiculous stories to show that
superstition still reigns here and this superstition has
perhaps been the guardian to many of the druidical
remains we noticed in the island. It was past six
when we returned to the inn where we were welcomed
by a most excellent repast.
Friday, Decr, 10
We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended
on account (fol. 108a) of our boots not being ready so
bad is the workmanship of the shoemakers in Wales
that the repairs of one day were destroyed by the
exertions of the next, and it was a business ahnost as
regular as eating our dinner when we arrived at the
mn to send our boots to get mended. Here I hope
we have had them secured effectually as we ordered
them to be studded with nails according to the fashion
of the country. Although on our arrival we scarcely
gained admittance at the inn as pedestrians yet on our
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 67
departure we had to pay the bill calculated for eques-'
trians of the first order so much had our consequence
been raised b}^the loquacity of our attendant in the
kitchen.
This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we
had sustained at Llanfechell caused a calculation to be
made which promised only three days' supply sup-
posing our concerns should fall into the hands of so
experienced a scribe as the landlady at Amlwch
(fol. 109). About eleven we were clear of the inn and
took the road across the fields to the small church of
Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of
the Wynne family a branch of which family was
settled at a large mansion now a farm near the spot.
The church door being open we found the interior
occupied by a grey headed pedagogue and his schollars.
On the pulpit were carved the arms of the Wynne's
and the seats and communion table exhibited the
same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at
Llanelian. This living was augmented by Queen
Anne's bounty and further donations as appears en-
graven on a brass tablet aflSxed to the north side of
the altar :
M. S.
Annae Reginae serenissimae
cujus muniticentia sine exemplo maxim ae
inter innumeras alias per magnam
(fol. 109«) Britanniam late sparsas
Tenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesia
cujus stipendiura annuum xx solidos ante non exedebat
libris ducentis donata est
promovente interim pietatem banc
et totidem libras de proprio conferente
per ultimum testamentum suum
Dat. 6*^" Septembris a.d. 1720
Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de Llantrisant
Filio Jobannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm.
Sexto et natu maximo
quibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctis
Tenementa sequentia coempta
et in usum ecclesiae prajdictae
In perpetuum stabilita sunt
E 2
68 TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
(fol. 110) 111° Nonas Decembris 1723
viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c.
Reditusque annuus 40 solidorum
De Tre Anghared in Bodedern
Com. Anglesea.
In tantae munificentiae memoriam
Tabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727.
On the opposite side of the communion table on a
similar tablet is engraved the pedigree of this branch
of the Wynne's which is as follows :
In hac Ecclesia jacent
1. Rees (ap Lie well wyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap
Ednyfed ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn,
ap Gwerydd ap Rees Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas
ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis filiam obiit anno Dni 1500.
(fol. 110«)
2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27° Julii anno Dni
1551 uxorem habuit Anghared tiliam et heredem de Plas y
Brian in parochia de Llanbeder.
3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Con-
way de Bryn Eyrinin Com. Carnaru.
4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596
uxorem duxit Elizabethan! Sion ap Rees Bodychen.
5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion
Griffith de Llanddyfran.
6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Pule-
ston de LI wyn y Knottie in com. Flint.
7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam
filiam et cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus
est cum auxore filioque natu maximo Johanne L L B in
ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de quo siquis (fol. Ill)
ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B — M positum im-
pensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris dig-
nissimi consulat.
Having finished our observations and preparing to
leave the church we were not a little surprized by a
request made by the schoolmaster for something to
drink our healths, though I complied with his request
I at the same time conveyed a kind of hint that an
instructor should not be mercinary. However he
pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot say
I discerned anything of that hectic flush come across
TJlE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 69
his cheek described by Sterne in his story of the poor
Monk. , ' ' -
Continuing Trom hence and passing by the magic
stone which had drawn us so much out of our way the
proceeding night we called at the treasure dreamer's
cottage as he had promised to shew us an inscription
which (fol. Ilia) he knew to be worthy of notice as a
clergyman of Llanerchymedd had been to copy it.
He was from home but his wife catching up her half
grown child in her arms walked before us at such
a rate we could scarcely keep up with her to the field
where it stood. We here found some characters and
just as I was preparing to take the impression of them
with putty so violent and cold a storm of sleet and
rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a
neighbouring farm. The farm house though of con-
siderable extent was open all the way up to the roof
the beds, kitchen, dairy, &c. being all contiguous to
each other. This we found on enquiry was the
common custom of the country. The weather holding
up a little we returned to the spot, in the interval
having learnt that the stone had some time since been
broken in two in order to make a gate post of the
lower part, we procured an (fol. 113) iron crow and
with the assistance of two stout lads from the farm
turned it over, it measures about four feet in length
but retains no appearance of characters on its surface
though by measuring its width we clearly discovered
that it must formerly have been united to the upper
part which is now fixed in the ground about an hundred
yards distant. On returning thither I took a very
exact copy. The name of the stone is Maen Hir
Llanol with is interpreted the large stone with letters
and when entire it must have been a conspicuous
object from most parts of the island as it stands on
very high ground.
The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we
hastened our march to Lianerchymedd our intended
station for the night. Although the distance to this
70
TEN days' tour THROUGM
place in a direct line is not above four miles and its
situation clearly discerned from Maen Hir Llanol
yet on account of the bogs and (fol. 113«) over-
flowing of the river we were obliged to make a circuit
of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo. In our
No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol.
way passed a farm called Boddeiniol where w^e stopped
to enquire for some druidical remains mentioned in
Mr. Bingley's list as still visible, but the farmer who
is apparently near eighty years old said he had never
had heard of anything of the kind since he had lived
ihere. But some time back in cleaning a pieCe of rough
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 71
ground in one of his fields he discovered four burying
places as J^e took' them to be the sides formed of Hat
stones set upright in the ground and covered by others
of the same irregular shape. Some of the stones he
shewed us lying against a fence but none of them
appeared to be above two feet and a half high. Crossed
the river Trepont^ a little below Llaiibabo. This river
is styled the largest in Anglesea although I am sure
one might easily leap over the widest part the channel
(fol. 114) when not flooded being not above twelve or
fourteen feet across. Arrived at Llanerchymedd a
little before four, enquiring of the innkeeper for an
ancient stone with an inscription near the town he
accompanied us to the house of a clergyman who he
said was very curious in these particulars and would
furnish us with every information on the subject. Our
reception was very pleasing but we had been misin-
formed in regard to the object of our enquiries there
being no other antiques in the neighbourhood besides
Maen Hir Llanol and the stone at Llantrisant al^out
four miles distant. In the evening Mr. Richards the
above mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn
and during our conversation gave some interesting
particulars of druidical remains in Bodafon mountain
which we purpose visiting in his company tomorrow.
This gentleman had a very perfect coin of Diocletian
of which I took an impression in sealing wax (fol. 114r()
in order to make a fac simile of the coin in isinglass on
my return — if we cannot procure originals we must be
content with copies. Having noted down the occur-
rences of the day we retired to bed desiring to be
called very early in order to get breakfast over by
seven the time we had agreed to set out.
1 Alaw?
^2*
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
Saturday, Decr. 11
A little before seven called at Mr. Richards's house
whom we found waiting at the door ready to accom-
pany us. He mounted his horse and we pursued the
Beaumaris turnpike for half^ a mile when we turned to
the left to look at a stone called Lleidr- y Frydog or the
thief stone. This is a rough stone about six feet high
having a kind of hump or projection near the top.
No. 50. [Thief Stone.]
The country people report that a thief who had stolen
some books from a neighbouring church was in this
place turned into stone with the sack containing his
theft laying over his shoulder. About a quarter of a
mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the spot where
formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire
and not far from it by the road side we saw two wells
whose waters were enclosed in a square reservoir of
stone work. Tradition says that the two saints Seriol
^ Two miles.
2 Careg Lleidr.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
73
and Cybi (the former having a cell at Priestholme the
latter at ^Holyhead where he founded a collegiate
church) used to hold their weekly meetings at the.si
springs to consult on religious matters, and from the
circumstance of Seriol's travellinar westward in the
morning and eastward in the evening, and Cybi on the
contrary always facing the sun they were denominated
Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn.
Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney.
When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of nu-ky
ground (fol. 117a) extending nearly two miles east
^^...^
Nu. 50a. Cromlech ou Bodafon Moimtaiu.
and west Mr. Richards gave his horse to our attendant
and accompanied us to a cromlech lying at the side of
the hill denominated cromlech Lldercoch^ nearly square
the upper stone being about eleven feet across sup-
ported by four or five small uprights not above a foot
and a half from the surface. This is by no means so
perfect as some we have before noticed. Had not Mr.
Kichards been positive of the fact I should have
doubted whether it had been designed for one. Ar-
rived nearly at the summit of the hill we entered a
cottage inhabited by a countryman whose grand-
1 Can this be meant for Lleidrgoch or Llechgoch 1 Possibly it
should be Llidach as a chapel of this name used to stand ••Ins.- to the
spot. — Cambrian Register, ii, 288.
74 TEN days' tour through
father and great grandfather resided there before him.
Under the direction of this person we chmbed to the
top of the hill to look at a Carnedd. Most of the
loose stones have been removed but some of the flat
ones which composed the cistfaen are still on the spot,
another more perfect lies about an hundred (fol. 118)
yards to the eastward of this, a third further beyond
which we did not visit. In the course of our walk the
Countryman pointed to a spot where he said his grand-
( — *j.
STr'*"^-
No. 51. Bodafon Hills.
mother whilst tending the cattle found a large trian-
gular^ piece of gold as he called it, standing on three
supporters weighing nearly forty pounds. The antique
overgrown with heath but one of the beasts hap.
1 The exact spot where the " triangular piece of gold" was found
is not clearly indicated. Apparently it was on the North-West side
of the mountain. Mr. Skinner, however, in his sketch, shows it on
the South-East side.
Probably the sketches were worked up in the evening from
memory, which may account for the errors which appear in some of
them.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
75
pening to tread upon it occasioned the discovery.
This she ^old for three shilhngs at Llanerchyniedd.
I should rather conceive that the metal was hrass
but whatever it was it would have been of more con-
siderable value in the eyes of the antiquarian. Not
far from this place he pointed to a number of loose
stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold
tongues^ as many pieces of gold of that shape he said
were formerly picked up here. From the formation
■■^^S^^
yrr£^ X«-»
5 ■£..
/f«^ J))
No. 52. South of Bodafoii Hill with a British Towu.
here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment
in pronouncing they were brass celts or British
weapons and as a farther (fol. 118a) confirmation
of this opinion not a great way distant facing the
south we traced the remains of a large Britislr town.
1 The position where these " gold tongues '" stood was probably
on the North- West side of the mountain though shown by Mr.
Skinner on the South-East.
2 This town was Tre Beirdd on the North-West side of the
mountain, incorrectly indicated on the South-East side on Mr.
Skinner's ground plan.
76 TEN days' tour THROUGH
Here about forty or fifty foundations such as we have
before noticed at Tre Eivan may be clearly discerned
some lying in a cluster together others standing
separate, others again having a square form the name
given to these remains scattered over the island we
were informed by our intelligent companion by Cyteau^
Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as some have tran-
slated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A
spring rising near the spot still has a term of the same
signification being stiled the well of the wild inhabit-
ants. Some vestiges of similar'^ buildings are to be
traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the
rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just
noticed. It is natural to suppose that when the island
was covered with wood, the inhabitants would fix their
residence on elevated stations as a security (fol. 120)
against their enemies and beasts of prey we may
suppose the lower parts of these huts were alone built
of stone and that branches of trees and earth formed
the covering like those at present used amongst the
lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not
this people have retained the mode observed by the
ancient Britons from whence they derive their origin.
The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east
commanding almost the whole circuit of the island.
Here a beacon used to be lighted in case of invasion
or to convey signals to the opposite coast of Carnar-
vonshire although probably it is many years since
anything of the kind was used, yet the stones and the
earth bear evident marks of the fire. It blew so hard
to day that it was with difiiculty we kept on our legs
on the high ground but on descending we were
sheltered from the wind and had a pleasant walk to
Penhros Llugwy church an ancient building abuut
half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a
(fol. 120a) rough flat stone in the church yard I traced
^ Cyttiau Gwyddelod.
- These are marked on the 25 in. Ordnance Map.
THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA
11
the following inscription, hie jacet Macuceceti.^ Mr.
Eowland^' upon what authority I know not, supposes
this to have been an inscription on Mechell or ^lacu-
tius bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he
says was buried here. We also observed two or three
<-->- --^^^A-rrJ M^:^(^ Ci^i^^^t^^
HltiA
C4TW€miL^
u,-m«.
U/^.^ y Pi "- '-
Troves ^
J'^U^ Ca -iiC,^ I .«^ /t' l^</
No. 53. Stones iu Penhros Lliigvvy Chuicliyaid.
flat grave^ stones of a rough gritty substance about
six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in
the same manner as those I noticed last year at
Furness abbey. But what seemed most curious at
1 Maccudecceti.
' No such stones are uow to be found here.
78 TEN days' tour through
first sight was an inscrijjtion marked on a flat stone^
lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to
be similar to what I had observed on the font at
Bridekirk in Cumberland mixed with Saxon letters of
a much later date. On observing Mr, Richards smile
after I had finished my copy I requested he would
candidly tell me what the inscription meant and in
what character (fol. 122) it was written for I could
make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to
No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwj', North-East Side.
relieve me from ray perplexity by explaining that it
had been executed within these sixty years by a
shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman who
employed various alphabets to compose it. The words
are Welsh to this effect Ynia hefyd mae Gorwedd
Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70. Here also
lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70.
This I suppose was intended as a stumbling block for
^ Catherine Jones' burial is entered in the Register, but the stone
cannot be found.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 79
antiquarians the idea being probably suggested by
Mr. Rowjand's Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like
Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret
the loss of my walking stick for although I dispatched
our attendant and clerk in quest of it before we had
proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I
had copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly
suspect that the clerk had taken a fancy to it as there
was no other person in the church yard excepting our
own party. However as he supplied me with some-
thing as a substitute it (fol. 122a) did not longer delay
our march which brought us in the course of half an
hour to Llugwy house an ancient mansion now rented
by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly
invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good
luncheon of bread and cheese and some excellent ale.
We then walked a short distance from the house to a
rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice
wood but still there was sufficient opening to enable
us to trace a number of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of
a more perfect form and larger dimensions than any
we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a
breast work of massive stones stuck edgeways in the
ground evidently intended as a fortification which was
probably strengthened by a mound and sharp stakes.
The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances
easily traced as also a communication^ from one to
the other. This is a strong^ confirmation of the
historical account of the Aborigines who are said in
the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing
in common.
We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very
extensive fortress on the top of Penmaenmawr which
Mr. Richards says resembles very much the one before
us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the
upper stone six yards long, five yards and a half wide
1 This is incorrect.
80 TEN days' tour THROUGH
and three yards^ thick. One end rests upon a bank'
of earth and the other is supported by four or five
small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath about
two feet high.
Near this we noticed the remains of Llugwy chapel
now entirely dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo
church said to have been built in the year six hundred
and five. On the north wall near the altar is a
mutilated monument^ of a knight in armour kneeling
<;»/.-
'^l-^t-.
!-:/,.iL J,....
-sa, ^m^h
No. 55. Llugwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]
before an altar said to be that of Sir John Bodville a
gentleman whose residence was in this parish. On
digging a few years ago the foundation of the new
parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault
formed of a solid composition resembling thick
(fol. 126rt) tile supposed to be an ancient burying place.
Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some
years says he has in his possession English coins of
1 The thickness is about 3 ft. 6 ins.
2 At this end it rests on a flat rock.
^ Demolished about fifteen years ago.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 81
EclwarcV and Mary found in digging in the churcli
yard. I#eaving the church we adjourned to a farm
house close by where the party was again supphed
with bread cheese and ale, Althouofh I did not much
admire this delay we were obliged to comply with
Mr. Richards's request. Continued here nearly an
hour during which time a poor blind boy attempted to
amuse us by playing on the harp but having received
but few instructions was but an indifferent performer,
~/a< u^U^c^y O^,.^ ^^
fii -—-
•-•fc. C .5tA-»^, «t_««k
•■^r^k.
■-^snt^i^gr^.
'' l-^ Lrfrn^(ei,J, (J.iyjc
No. 56. Cromlech AUcho.
■
our attendant then took the instrument and played
some of the Welsh airs with tolerable execution. The
poor boy in the meantime exhibited such strong marks
of surprize mixed with mortification as would have
supplied an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth.
After havinof aiven something to him we were not a
little glad to take our leave it being (fol. 127) past two,
and there Avas a doubt whether we could procure
accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris at
1 ] William and Mary.
82 TEN days' tour through
least twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven
feet high nine long and three thick this is placed
edgeways on a flat rock, another about the same shape
and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A
third formerly placed across has been destroyed within
the memory of some of the inhabitants. These stones
are called Cromlech but I should rather imagfine like
those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had con-
stituted the chamber of a laro-e Carnedd. Proceedingf
hence we walked over a natural layer of lime stones
extendinof for some acres along- the surface of the
ground this is called Marian Glas a term expressive of
flat grey stones. We here met with a countryman
who joined our party and in our progress pointed out
some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127a) a
rising ground called Bryn^ ddiol, and from hence we
saw a hill about two miles to the westward named
Rhos Fawr where he said were some other remains
and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction
we could not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr.
Richards quitted us. We were indeed much indebted
to him for his polite attention in accompanying us
ttius far for I am convinced that without his assistance
we should have passed many of these curious remains
the common people in general being ignorant of every-
thing of the Idnd. This gentleman seems to have paid
a good deal of attention to antiquities and has promised
to favour me with a letter on the subject on my
return home. But I could not help remarking in the
course of conversation that superstition does not seem
confined to the ignorant and illiterate for he told me
very gravely (fol. 129) that there were companies
of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in
Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from
their haunts. He also spoke of the knockers supposed
to be little invisible beinofs favourable to the miners
who by making a variety of sounds underground lead
^ At Traeth Bychan 1 Bryn ddiol is the hill on which the
Romano-British village, close to Parciau House, is situated.
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA 83
them to those places where there is the greatest
quantity«of ore. I could only be silent when I heard
these opinions advanced but he has directed me to a
book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Ponty-
pool on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large
stones of the same kind as the substrata rising above
seven feet. They have obtained the name of cromlech
but I rather imagine them to be natural productions.
Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded
to Red Wharl. Passed more of the Cytiau Gwyddel-
hod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is an
ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to
Mr. Meyricke (fol. 129a) the name of Glynn a title
common in many parts of Wales I iind implies a
situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with
trees. Not far beyond was a house in which Mr.
Hughes resided before his vast acquisition in the Parys
mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before dark
and the house promised but very bad accommodations
we were obliged to put up with them. Our eating
was of the least importance but on retiring to my
sleeping apartment although the woman had provided
clean linen the tonte ensemble was so dirty I passed
the night without taking off my cloatbs.
Sunday, Deck. 12
We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse
as soon as there was sufficient light to see our direction
three miles across the sands of Traeth Goch to the
village of Llanddona whose church srands on an emi-
nence above the (fol. 130) bay and was first founded by
Ddona grandson of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who fought
the Saxons when the monks of Bangor Iscoed were
slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten. About half a
mile to the left are the traces of a large entrenchment
supposed to have been thrown up by the Britons as a
defence against the northern invaders. This is on a
84
TEN DAYS TOUR THROUGH
rising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn^ or Round Table Hill.
This we had not leisure to see beino^ obligfed to hasten
to Llamestan'- about a mile in the contrary direction
in order to have sufficient time to notice an ancient
monument, mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before service
No. .58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn.
began. Fortunately the church door was open and
we met with no interruption during the half hour we
stayed there. The object in question covering a
cenotaph rose about two feet above the pavement near
the communion table. A person in a sacerdotal habit
1 Din Sylwy or Bwrdcl Arthur.
- Llaniestyn
THE ISLE OB- ANGLESEA 85
holding a pastoral crook in his right hand and in his
left a scroll is here represented, whereon is inscribed
(fol, 131a) hie jacet sanctus Jestiniis cui &c., round
the border of the slab towards the head the characters
in parts are much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap
Gwyllym in oblationem istam imaginem pro salute
animarum suarum. The style of workmanship appears
very similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by the way
tends to confirm the opinion we there formed that the
sculpture is many centuries posterior to the time
of the persons they are designed to represent and
offered as an oblation to the church for the purpose of
securing the favour and mediation of the patron saint.
That the family of this Gryftyd ap Gwyllym resided
in this neighbourhood appears from a document still
extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth
in the twenty seventh year of Henry the sixth by which
seven villaines or vassals were made over and granted
by Ednyfed Fj^chan ap Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd
and Howell ap Dafydd according to the feudal system
still obtaining to (fol. 133) William Gryff'yd ap Gwylym
free tenant of Porthamel probably the very same
person who presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the
church. This Jesten founder of the church is supposed
to have been the son of Gerennius or Geraint grandson
of Constantino duke of Cornwall successor to king
Arthur. The font is certainly very ancient probably
coeval with the original building. The present struc-
ture differs nothing from other Welsh Churches. From
hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a mile and
a half to an old mansion called Fotti^ Rhydderch or
Roderick's summer house having been directed thither
to see an inscription cut over an arched chimney piece
in the kitchen. The characters appear to be about
the time of Henry the eighth or his successor and are
read Si deus nobiscum quis contra nos. This place
formerly the residence of a gentleman's family like
1 Hafodty
86;
tEN DAYS^ TOUR THROUGH
most others we have had occasion to notice in the
island is now tenanted by a farmer (fol. 133a) who has
a fine family of nine children. The eldest a lad of
only eleven years old engaged to conduct us to the
cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor. At the former
place there is little worthy of notice but at the latter
I took two sketches of a very perfect cromlech the
upper stone measuring about three yards across sup-
ported by two uprights the larger six feet high the
No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn.
other not above four and a half which cause the
cap stone to recline in a slanting direction. Another
long stone now lying on the ground appears to have
been formerly used as a supporter. Near at hand also
are three or four flat stones lying promiscuousl}'".
Whether these were ever employed in the foi'mation
of a second cromlech like at Praes Addfed^ I cannot
pretend to determine. About two fields from hence
in our way to Penymynnedd^ we traced one of very
^ Presaddfedd.
2 Penmynydd.
•THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA
87
- 1
fv
h \
W \
tk
J^'"..-.^
1. - ^^^•'-^''^
/-■
...v'
No. 00, Crouilech at Trefor.
No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor.
88 TEN days' tour through
small dimensions, the cap stone not being above a
yard across and its two supporters a foot and a half
high.
(fol. 136) After a toilsome walk we arrived at
Penymynnedd a place formerly in possession of the
Tudor family whose descendant Owen became of such
consequence in the British history by marrying
Catherine widow of Henry the fifth. In the church
we perceived a handsome marble monument said to
belong to that family whereon are the effigies of a
knight in armour with his lady by his side. There
beino" no inscription we could not determine its exact
date but from the workmanship I should imagine it
was posterior to the time of Owen who if I mistake
not was buried in the cathedral of St. Davids but of
this I shall inform myself hereafter.
The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the
name of its founder whose tomb they pointed out
under a kind of gothic nitch in the north wall without
any kind of inscription. I did not copy the monument
on account of there being a good many people in
church (fol. 136a) and I wished not to put a stumbling
block in my brother's way but I afterwards made a
sketch from memory just to notice the place. After
a homely meal we walked half a mile across the fields
to the turnpike, and in the course of an hour arrived
at Bangor ferry completely soaked a heavy rain
having accompanied us all the way. Crossed the
water about two with the design of reaching Capel
Cerio- to sleep but in this we were disappointed
through the inattention of our guide who having
stopped behind on some pretence we mistook our
way and deviated nearly four miles before we got to
Llandegai.
It was now quite dark and stormy and we
endeavoured to procure horses to take us to the con-
clusion of our stage but without success, on there-
fore we marched to a small public house near Lord
Penrhyn's quarries where we met a civil reception
THE ISLE OP ANGLESEA 89
Jfc.
though the accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138) a
whit better than those of the preceeding night. In the
course of two hours after our arrival our guide made
his appearance with a number of excuses I did not
think it worth while to listen to. At about ten we
retired to our sleeping room.
(Hi
■\
'■OX;v:>
No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (6'ee page 43. )
Monday, Decr. 1 3
It rained violently all night but clearing up after
breakfast we pursued our road to Capel Cerig. In
our way purchased a hone at the quarry near Ogwen
lake of a man living in a cottage close at hand who is
employed on the spot to procure this article and two
or three shiploads have already been sent to different
parts. Arrived at the inn about one gratified by our
ten days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad
weather we experienced having in that period walked
above an hundred and sixty eight miles.
Corrigendum.
On page 68, line 30, for "auxore" read " uxore."
G
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